{"id":28731,"date":"2021-02-18T04:12:38","date_gmt":"2021-02-18T08:12:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mofga.org\/?post_type=resources&p=28731"},"modified":"2024-12-09T18:15:58","modified_gmt":"2024-12-09T23:15:58","slug":"establishing-and-caring-for-an-organic-lawn","status":"publish","type":"resources","link":"https:\/\/www.mofga.org\/resources\/fact-sheets\/establishing-and-caring-for-an-organic-lawn\/","title":{"rendered":"Establishing and Caring for an Organic Lawn"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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No synthetic pesticides or fertilizers are needed for a quality lawn.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The cool climate of Maine favors healthy lawns. The grass will grow lush and with few problems as long as basic plant needs are met, including proper soil fertility, soil structure, soil organic matter and proper watering and mowing<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You don’t need synthetic pesticides or fertilizers for a quality lawn, and such synthetic chemicals can pollute bodies of water and harm wildlife, from beneficial insects to worms, fish, birds and others. Unfortunately, according to the Maine Board of Pesticides Control, more than 6.2 million pounds of yard care pesticides were brought into Maine in 2007 \u2013 a sevenfold increase since 1995 that coincided with an equal explosion of yard care companies in Maine. The trend reversed in 2011, when yard care pesticides brought into Maine dropped to 5.7 million pounds. You can help continue this decrease by growing a lawn without using pesticides or by hiring an organic lawn care company<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pesticide-free lawns benefit all living things.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Establishing a New Lawn<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can start a new lawn in Maine almost anytime between early spring and mid-September.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soil Preparation<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Good soil preparation is important for quick establishment of lawn grasses. The soil surface should be smooth, without humps that you’ll shave by the mower or dips that will collect water. If you remove the topsoil, you should add 6 inches of new topsoil. This equals 372 cubic yards of topsoil per quarter acre (or 34 cubic yards per 1,000 square feet). If the soil is mostly sandy, gravely or clayey, incorporate organic matter<\/a> to improve soil structure. This helps hold water and nutrients in the soil. For each 1,000 square feet of lawn, add 4 cubic yards of compost, well-rotted manure or well-rotted leaves. Aim for 5 to 7 percent organic matter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A soil test kit from the University of Maine Cooperative Extension<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Liming and Fertilizing<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

To determine lime and fertilizer needs, test your soi.. Obtain a soil test kit (a small cardboard box and a paper form) from your county University of Maine Cooperative Extension office.<\/a> Note on the form that you want organic recommendations for a lawn. Test results will come back to you with recommendations for lime and nutrient amendments. MOFGA Fact Sheet #11, Learning how to use organic amendments<\/a> to meet soil needs is necessary as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can meet nitrogen requirements with compost, manure, or seed meals such as soybean meal. One can meet future nitrogen requirements of established lawns by including white clover into the lawn species mix. Homeowners usually meet phosphorus and potassium needs with rock phosphate and SulPo-Mag, respectively. You can also meet calcium and magnesium needs with limestone applied when adjusting soil pH. (A pH 6.0 to 6.5 is good for most lawns.) Also, many commercial, bagged, mixed organic fertilizers and composts are available at garden centers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Compost adds nutrients and organic matter to soils.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

If you adjust the soil pH and fertility with organic amendments when establishing the lawn, you will rarely need to add minerals later on unless you remove them by removing grass clippings when mowing. Also, raising the soil pH to 6.0 to 6.5 will favor lawn grasses over many weeds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tilling<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mix any recommended fertilizer, limestone and organic matter into the top 6 inches of soil by plowing and rototilling. But don’t till excessively, as the beating action may destroy soil structure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After tilling, wait two weeks for weed seeds to germinate, then till again to kill them. Plant after the second tilling unless a heavy crop of weeds emerges. In this case, wait two more weeks and till again before planting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seeding<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Choose grass varieties that are adapted to the conditions of sun or shade, amount of foot and vehicle traffic, water and soil type on your site.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The three principal grass varieties used in the Northeast are Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescues and perennial ryegrasses. Perennial ryegrass is not hardy enough to survive Maine winters but is sometimes added to grass mixtures because it starts growing quickly and offers cover to the other varieties before they get established.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In areas receiving full sun, Kentucky bluegrass should make up at least 75 percent of the mix. This is because In areas receiving full sun, Kentucky bluegrass, which is best adapted to bright sunlight, should make up at least 75 percent of the mix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fine-leaved fescues tolerate shade and should make up at least 65 percent of a shade mix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

White clover, a legume, associates with bacteria that \u201cfix\u201d nitrogen from the atmosphere \u2013 i.e., they convert the abundant nitrogen gas in the atmosphere into a form plants can use. So adding white clover to a grass mix helps maintain soil fertility. Clover also stays green during moderate droughts and helps the lawn continue to look good then. The clover flowers also support bees. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A general mix for a partially shaded lawn is<\/p>\n\n\n\n